Colby in the Park

When Lonely is What Your Daddy Warned You Not to Be…

The truth is, almost everywhere I go the people I meet are truly, sincerely, good and honest souls. In some cosmic formulation that even Bonnie Raitt sang about (“Whether your sunglasses are off or on/You only see the world you make”) and, come to think of it, Rickie Lee Jones chimed in too (“the world you make inside your head. that’s the one you see around you, that’s what I said…”) (Really, come to think of it, most of my pop/rock gods and goddesses have taught this same lesson)… it seems there is a general consensus that positive thinking creates positive experiences.

I believe this. I believe that people are good, too, because they demonstrate this to me all the time, like when my car was broken into twice in one week back home in New York City. Yeah, yeah, that sucked but, wait!! Someone found my registration mixed in with the broken glass in the street and took the time to mail it back to me! The two-time window-smashing bummer of a human being who had so messed up that week was easily forgotten in the ecstasy of moral triumph I felt, finding that registration in the post box.

However: Road tripping with my dog in search of some of the saddest parts of our country, my focus is actually not on positive goodness, but on desperation and/or plain old despair. So the world I see is the world…I…make in my mind and witness and then wish I hadn’t conjured up, basically. As if the sad truth of the world is all my fault. (Maybe it is…?)

On a trail in a large, beautiful park just outside downtown Rockford, Illinois, I took Colby for a big walk before doing a few laps of the main road to get a long run in. Great park: long green lawn rolling off to, apparently, a reservoir–though I never saw one. I did see lush woods and patches of re-established prairie grass around bubbling brooks that here and there pooled up deep enough for a dog to splash into (though Colby really just likes to stand at the edge of the water and drink it). There were some clues to a less happy reality there too, though. First, it seemed odd to me that the park was so empty on a gorgeous fall Saturday. But, maybe everyone was busy at home, reading. Yeah, that’s it probably. Some of the nicer houses of Rockford back up to that park, so possibly looking at it is enough for those who know the place is there.

Next clue: there was a large gate with a sign on it that said it would be used to lock off the nature center where the children’s programs run during certain days and hours in the summer. Is it really necessary to protect the children by gating off the road that leads to them? Well perhaps I was reading into it; perhaps they have big fuzzy animals as part of a petting zoo that they are trying to keep corralled in there. Sure. Okay.

Now, as for the series of rust-bucket cars that came and went in the upper parking area with people sitting in the front seat who never got out but who ducked down furtively now and then and, after awhile, just sat there leaning back with their eyes closed…well, what I have to say about that is, when I was a teenager, people used to go to the parks to do drugs, but, they tended to sit in a circle in the grass playing their guitars while doing it. It was really a more innocent time.

Yes, the world has definitely changed, but that’s what I’ve come out here to witness. So I don’t just lock my door and stay home, but when I walk my dog in places where I’m not entirely confident about the mix of people, I try not to end up anywhere too lonely. On a path in the park in Rockford, I did wonder if I should turn back when I came across a thin, nervous-looking man and a dog larger than both Colby and me, but my faith in people won over. Besides, there were other people walking the trail; there are still plenty of people, everywhere I go, who are enjoying the world despite the honest sense that something has gone terribly wrong in it, and we seem more or less to be looking out for each other.

“You don’t look like you’re from around here,” the man said.

“Oh?” Should I confess that I’m not? Would that make me too vulnerable? The answer is to stick to monosyllables and smile.

“Nice dog,” he said.

“Yup,” I answered. And later, in answer to another question, “I’m doing some travel writing.”

“Oh! I write too…”

And he told me that he wrote about his struggles with bipolar disorder, something that too many people I have known have also struggled with. “I don’t mean to scare you,” he said. “But it was some pretty scary stuff that happened to me.”

“Hey, writing is the way to get through it,” I said, having written my way out of some deep madness myself at least once in my life. Then I snapped Colby’s leash on, and we left. Because I thought we really had to; because there was no sense in staying in a spot where even the person I was speaking too acknowledged that the rational response would be fear.

I don’t fear the world, actually. This is largely because I was born with a freakishly depleted store of foresight; I have tried to learn to look as far ahead as I need to but I have never seen ahead to the reasons that make some actions a bad idea. And it is my lack of fear that lets me do something like haul my dog and trailer across the country to begin with; and it was the honest-to-god good people who stopped in Rockford to help me when my trailer bounced off its hitch in the middle of the road…(thank you Debbie Lynn! Thank you, anonymous man!)

Still, smart money hedges a little bit–and so I hedge, if only to acknowledge that in this world, there are some deep pockets of darkness and it’s a good idea not to think you already know exactly where they are. And so, too, I have decided to acknowledge a suggestion my father made a few weeks ago and change the tag line on this blog which, until today, read “One woman, one dog, one scamp, keep moving.” Changed. Done. And we roll along.

Road Trip 101: Move with Purpose

Colby and I are on a mission to see dozens of American towns and cities that boomed when America was experiencing its industrial age, and that have since hit bad times. We are touring the rust belt, the coal belt, the Bible belt… we want to see places that have fallen apart.

Don’t go getting all goofy about road trips and freedom and following your bliss and all that; when you travel you need to have a mission. You can digress, you can detour, you can show up late to appointments you’ve made with yourself, but if you set out with no idea where you’re going or why, you’ll regret it.

I can’t say I learned this the hard way because there was really nothing very difficult about it. I’ve just wasted a lot of time wandering aimlessly over the years and by now, I know better. Wandering is a travel style, not a travel purpose. You need to move with purpose. You need to have a destination or a series of destinations, and if you fall off track then that’s part of the adventure, as in, “I was heading for Des Moines but then Peoria was so awesome that I stayed there for a week.” Had there not been a plan for Des Moines in this example, Peoria would lose its status of fantastic sidetrack and become merely some place in Illinois where you got stuck, and that’s sort of pathetic. There are other reasons why you need to have a solid purpose in your travels, but that’s one and it’s enough to make the argument: Have a plan.

Colby

sunset road

In fact, Colby and I have a number of “purposes” for this trip. The cities are simply giving us a framework. We are, for one thing, going to spend about 10 weeks together, just about all day every day, and that is something that means a lot to me. My dog is 14 years old. He is one of the great loves of my life; I can’t imagine life without him. When my friend Katherine, who was his breeder, handed Colby to me, I remember her saying “I am so happy for you. You’re about to discover one of the best kinds of love.” She was right. The time I can spend with him now might make up for all the days when I had to stay late at work, or was too busy to really care for him, when I took him for the most uninspired walks or fed him late without apology. He’s a spry 14, and handsome as hell, and good company. I’m lucky to have this time with the guy.

I have a selfish purpose for taking this trip, too. I want to feel lonely. It’s working already; as I write this, I am experiencing loneliness even with Colby laying at my feet. I am in a crummy motel room in a crummy city, about to attend a conference in the morning–not even spending tonight in the Scamp, which is fun. I was driving for hours today and it is not summer; when it is summer and I drive in the Midwest, as I do every summer and as I was doing, actually, when I got the idea for this road trip, I am always happy, anticipating days on a lake or with friends and family. But it is late September now, not summer but a plain, dull Thursday plucked from the tail end of the calendar, and the highways are only half as full as I remember them, and the cashiers at the rest area gift shops are mopey and bored, and I am alone for weeks already, and just about now, just now, I am beginning to face myself, alone. It’s what I have been wanting to do, and I can try to explain it in a future post if this is something that needs explaining. But it is certainly one purpose I have for this long trip.

The main reason, though–the official, structural, organizing principle of these travels with Colby–is  to accomplish what I was given a sabbatical to do: To look at these places I’m calling “ghost cities,” and to write about them. And take pictures. And find ways to put this material online. So we are out here visiting depressed American cities–cities with vacant storefronts and empty factories and abandoned, foreclosed, condemned homes; cities with unemployment rates through the roof and fellow Americans experiencing a life that I don’t think many of us can really conceive of. I want to see them. I want to learn about what is going on, out there. I want to know and understand. God, I know how to have fun. Don’t I? I have mapped out two months’ worth of ghost cities to see.

I met a couple in a campground outside Pittsburgh who told me they had been traveling all summer long, going to baseball games. It is the very tail end of the season now, about to slip into playoffs time, and they said they would soon be heading home to Guilderland, NY. But first: They stopped to watch the Cincinnati Reds beat the Pittsburgh Pirates. A friend of mine likes to go to churches; he’s traveled throughout Europe and gone into every church he saw. I’m partial to the coffee shop tour of Europe, myself–the cafe circuit. But be it churches, cafes, baseball, or burned-out refineries, so long as your journey has a general reason behind it, you’ll never have to explain yourself to anyone, and you can wander all you like.

And when you get too lost–too lonely–just pull out that plan, get back on track, and keep going.